Sitting
down to a meal at Lolita's is a little like pulling up to Mama's table
- if your Mama is Mexican and knows her way around the kitchen.
Named
after co-owner Vincente Barrera's late mother, the tiny restaurant at
the outskirts of Morningside Heights fills a gap in an area that is
slowly revitalizing. His late mother dreamed of opening a restaurant,
but died tragically after being hit by a vehicle in 2004 while crossing
the street. Barerra is helping keep his mother's dream alive.
Open
breakfast, lunch and dinner, Lolita's menu is anchored by family
recipes -- most notably a homemade mole of more than 31 ingredients,
secret of course, prepared by Barrera's sister, Luz Maria. The chorizo
used in their recipes -- try the quesadilla de chorizo con queso -- is
made from scratch also. Even the vinegar is made from tuba, an
alcoholic beverage made from palm flower sap.

Lolita
"It's
the closest you can get to a Mexican kitchen," Barrera said recently
over a family style meal. Truly a family affair, his daughter and son
help out in the dining room and wife, Joselyn, an Allstate insurance
agent, drops in after a day at the office.
We tried the Camarones
ala Diabla, made with four chiles -- guajillo, chile de arbol, ancho
and chipotle -- and not for the faint of heart, as well as the Carne
Enchilada, and Enchiladas Poblana (prepared with Mole Poblano). Ask for
the Camarones ala Diabla. It's not on the menu. And don't miss the
Nopal, grilled cactus.

Camarones ala diabla (Spicy shrimp)
While
the menu is one that is sure to please carnivores, chef and co-owner
Fiacro Moran is happy to prepare vegetarian versions of his dishes for
non-meat eaters.
Dinner for two is easily under $25.
Alejandro
Astudillo is the restaurant's very amiable and accommodating manager
and catering director. Lolita's seats about 30, but handles outside
catering for more than 200 and will arrange entertainment such as
mariachis.
For more info: Lolita's 57 Lenox Avenue at 113th Street, 212-222-6969 BYOB, near the 2/3 at 110th St